Videos
Videos
Spideroma or The Suffering of Rainer K.
Climbing in Ibiza : The Suffering of Rainer K while Overcoming the Great Overhang in the SPIDEROMA.
SPIDEROMA, estimated 6c/A2 (6a+/A2 oblig) has 6 pitches and is a pure MOBSS route, only the belays have a glued-in anchor. Maybe the roof is free climbable, but then it is probably in the upper eighth grade. Rainer Klingner and Sven Sommer opened SPIDEROMA in September 2020 in Punta de Aquila, Ibiza. The sequences of the film were made while we were drilling the new climbing route.
Corona Phase 1
IBIZA : Climbing Klettern Escalada : Corona Phase 1, 6b, was opened by Rainer Klingner and Sven Sommer during the first illegal Lockdown in Spain in 2020. It is a secret magical climb in the north of the island and starts with Piazentanz at Faders. After that first pitch with titanium bolts follow 3 MOBSS-pitches. Here only the belays have glued in anchors. From the end you can either traverse into the SUM or – like in the film – you abseil back to the sea. Enjoy!
Spideropa
Climbing in Ibiza. The island is still a secret paradise for climbers in the mediterranean. Spideropa 6c / 6a/A2 oblig. is a new route through the north face of Cap Creu on Ibiza. Only the belays are bolted with stainless steel anchors. Otherwise the route can be protected with the new mobile safety system (MOBSS).
RocknRoll into the Sixties
Climbing in Ibiza. As even the last r o c k d o g is edging towards sixty this video is a brief celebration of live and age. MOBSS has helped us to discover new worlds! It is never too late to get RocknRolling.
Panoramica & Gran Diedro
Climbing in Ibiza. The island is still a secret paradise for climbers in the mediterranean. El Gran Diedro, 6b+ and La Panoramica, 6a are two multi-pitch climbing routes on the north face of Cap Aubarca. Rainer Klingner and I bolted the routes in spring 2016 and we opened them in April/May that year. More infos you can find on www.ibiza-rockclimbing.com and www.ibiza-klettern.de. For the moment all the belays are mobssified.
Breaking bolts in the Med
Breaking Bolts in the Med – Brechende Haken in Meeresnähe – Las chapas rompen en el Med. Stainless steel expansion bolts in INOX A2 or A4 can hold up to 30kN and were considered a safe option protecting climbing routes all over the world. NOT ANY MORE! In the last years we could observe bolts like the one in this video suddenly breaking. As a result be extra cautious when climbing near the sea and you come across Inox expansion bolts!For the moment all the belays are mobssified.
Stairway to Heaven
Climbing in Ibiza. The island is still a secret paradise for climbers in the mediterranean. Stairway to Heaven, 6a, is one of the most spectacular multi pitch routes on the northern side of Ibiza. It was discovered and climbed first by Rainer Kingner and Sven Sommer in 2012. For the moment all the belays are mobssified.
Sum
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